Tangle net helps sustain salmon

By Tim Pawsey

It's summer in the city, when a chef's thoughts turn to-(where else?)-salmon.

There was a time when we didn't worry about salmon. It all went hand-in-hand with beach barbecues and tourists. And in Vancouver, where it's firmly ensconced on our civic coat of arms, we took it for granted.

Times have changed. And the wild sockeye, coho, pinks and chums that for so many years have played such a huge dietary and cultural role in the life of West Coast people are by no means as plentiful as they used to be or should be. Proof of that can be found in NAFTA's Commission for Environmental Co-operation released last January but conveniently ignored by our increasingly eco-ignorant (read: business-friendly at all costs) mainstream media.

On fisheries, the report says, "About 60 per cent of world fish stocks are either over fished or fully harvested. As the most desirable species, including salmon, cod, halibut and swordfish decline, some believe that we are now fishing down the food chain, in many cases catching the food needed to rebuild depleted species."

In short, it's past time we showed more respect for our seafood-as well as for the environment that it comes from.

From his waterside perch on False Creek, C chef Rob Clark has been alarmed by the same signals but-unlike the politicians who choose to blithely ignore caveats such as the NAFTA report-he's taking action.

Last year, C Restaurant collaborated with the Suzuki Foundation in initiating its sustainable seafood program. Now, C has gone one step further, by becoming the first restaurant in Canada to (legally) purchase salmon directly from the fisher. The restaurant works with Fred and Linda Hawkshaw, from the Prince Rupert area, who have developed a "tangle net" technique. The fish are caught by the jawbone and not the gills, before being hand-picked from the net-after spending about a third of the time they would normally spend in the water. (Following this, they're kept alive until the vessel docks and are handled with extreme care until the Hawkshaws airfreight them directly to C.)

Not only do the fish arrive in pristine condition (gill-netted fish can be quite badly bruised) but the "live" catch and bleed techniques used by the Hawkshaws make for a noticeably fresher fish, which has a superior taste and a longer kitchen life.

Clark says that while fish purchased through regular suppliers must be used within three days of delivery, the Hawkshaw's Skeena salmon remains remarkably fresh for over a week after its arrival. I've tasted the fish on a couple of occasions and have been amazed at the difference in taste and in texture, especially when sampled beside fish caught in the broader commercial manner. These fish are truly the AAAs and the Sterlings of the salmon world.

But even though flavour and freshness are paramount, the choice to buy directly from the vessel goes beyond matters of taste, says Clark.

"These are the most beautiful salmon I've ever seen," says the chef. "It's really exciting to deal with people who care how they handle the fish. They respect it. It's not a commodity." Although regular suppliers work well, one challenge, says the chef, is not knowing how long the fish has been out of the water. By dealing direct, he knows where the fish came from and exactly when it was caught, and can judge properly how long it will last, which cuts down on spoilage. Not only that, but the tangle-net method also eliminates the controversial "by-catch," which often sees other species killed unnecessarily.

Then there's the issue of increased revenue. "Why would a vessel take fish and sell it for $1.50 (a pound) when so much more can be done," says Clark. "As our resources get smaller, more people are going to have to do the same-and raise the quality of what's available."

So far-from standpoints of both ethics and taste-Clark is delighted with the program-and no doubt with C's exclusive opportunity. But, in time, he hopes that everyone who cares enough should be able to have access to this fish, and plans to work with other chefs just as soon as supply permits.

In the meantime, if you're interested in tasting wild salmon with a difference-check in at C. You'll be surprised. (C Restaurant is at 1600 Howe St., 604-681-1164.)