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Popping the New Year's cork in sparkling style
By Tim Pawsey
If ever there was a night to splurge, this is it. You're having a quiet celebration at home, or want to take a special bottle to share with friends. Champagne and New Year's Eve go together hand in glove. But what to buy and how much to spend? The choices range from French Champagne to an ever-expanding field of well made "m‚thode traditionelle" style wines that pay tribute to the original.
Why buy Champagne-that's Champagne with a capital "C" It has a cachet all its own, but there's another reason. Taste wise, nothing comes close to the complexity and richness offered by Champagne houses large and small.
Ultimately, it all comes down to what you want to spend. If you don't want to splurge, there are very good alternatives, including several from B.C.
Here's a list of recently tasted Champagnes and sparkling wines that more than live up to expectations:
ù Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Premier Cru
Not so well-known here but a big name in France, Nicolas Feuillatte is Champagne's third largest producer. Lots of fine bubbles, nuttiness on the nose. On the palate: dry with honey and citrus notes with a crisp clean finish. Great with oysters and smoked salmon. LDB $49.99
ù Lanson Black Label Brut.
A lesser-known but worthwhile buy. Fine bubbles with toasty and honeyed notes on the nose, surprising richness and citrus flavours on the palate with a long finish. LDB $44.49
ù Bollinger Special Cuv‚e
Regarded as the most consistent and superior quality producers, Bollinger calls its non-vintage by a special name. Look for fine bubbles, classic "biscuit" nose with a rounded, creamy palate and toastiness before a lengthy end. $72.00
ù Charles Heidsieck Mis en Cave '98
Toasty, creamy and surprisingly complex, this wine delivers a lot for its relatively moderate cost and displays the depth and balance for which Heidsieck is renowned. $48.11
ù Graham Beck Brut
This new "Cap Classique" arrival from South Africa delivers great character, with a quick mousse and broad but not too yeasty texture. Fifty per cent Pinot Noir and 50 per cent Chardonnay delivers good balance with citrus notes on the palate and green apple close. $24.99
ù Summerhill Cipes Brut
B.C. sparkling wines offer great value and often pair well with local foods, such as Dungeness crab or oysters. This is one of few Riesling sparklers around: crisp with distinctive apple and citrus flavours with keen acidity, some light toasty notes and a clean end. Private wine and VQA stores. $23.99
posted on 12/06/2004
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