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Meet The Drive's good Charlatan
By Tim Pawsey
"Can't find me wallet," complained the birthday boy. "But you're buying right?"
"That's OK, we're going to The Charlatan-you'll fit right in," I was tempted to say, but didn't. After all, the anniversary was for real and he of advancing years is not normally lacking in largesse.
The Man and the Hired Belly have a long and honourable history of occasional pints. Too occasional these days, we've decided. Oscar Wilde had it right: work really is the curse of the drinking classes.
Our tradition demands decently crafted pints (insipid American ales need not apply). As it turns out, The Charlatan (1447 Commercial Dr., 604-253-2777) more than fits the bill. In fact, the Hired Belly had previously spied the small army of taps from the street and selflessly sacrificed valuable time for a couple of test pours, pronouncing it a shoo-in for the approved pints list. Any pubstitute where brews such as Kilkenny, Guinness and Bass outnumber the locals is worth at least a couple of pulls.
But there's more to The Charlatan than its gleaming pumps, front and centre bar and flat screens. Our hunch is that the kitchen will give neighbouring and equally worthy Stella's a run for its money-not a bad thing for the Drive's culinary prowess.
The menu is an expansive list of eclectic small plates that trims down for lunch, but you can still choose from quite an array, including a quartet of creative and affordable mussel bowls ($10). Tequila, ancho and chilli, also Madras curry, and more staid white wine were all tempting, but the Pernod with ginger and kaffir lime won out and exceeded expectations. You have to order the excellent frites separately, which is bordering on treason but the perfectly cooked molluscs made up for the milquetoast focaccia. Almost.
Burgers ($10) do come with fries, however, and the garlic lamburger is a standout-generous and juicy with lashings of roasted garlic, served with a suitably Greek twist of tzatziki and feta.
Our lunchtime foray wasn't sufficient for a full sampling. But we'd hazard a guess that the duck confit with truffle risotto or spicy seafood hot pot are worth heading back for. And did we mention that the pints, including Strongbow cider, are more than fairly priced ($4.95 to $5.50 a pop).
Quick bites: The city's eating scene is awhirl. Longtime Pan Pacific executive chef and F&B director couple Ernst Dorfler and Gerry Sayers have inked a deal with The Pan to take over the Five Sails and run it independently. The harbour view room, now closed, will reopen at the beginning of May with an updated, more relaxed look-and with the husband and wife team front and centre.
Is Gastown the new Yaletown? Could be, given the slew of imminent openings. Keenly anticipated is the April opening of So.Cial at Le Magasin. It's an elegant restoration of the one time Kilimanjaro space at 332 Water St. by Ocean 6 Seventeen's Maureen Fleming, partnered with chef Sean Cousins and former NHLers Kirk McLean and Bob McCammon. The combo restaurant/oyster bar and charcuterie/butcher shop should be a hot spot.
Stuart Irving (ex Wild Rice) and Tyson Reimer are behind the Nuevo Latino-themed Cobre, which takes over from departed Curious at 52 Water St. Meanwhile, Flux Bistro (in the old Rossini's spot) should have the wraps off any day soon.
Belly's Best
ùJacob's Creek Reserve Shiraz 2004: Dominant black fruit on the nose with a solid, quite plush palate of chewy blackberry, cedar, black pepper and spice notes, approachable tannins and a lengthy end (BCLS $21.95). Plot now for the barbie.
published on 03/30/2007
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