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Oliver staking out its unique wine identity
By Tim Pawsey
Oliver, B.C.-The little town, which a few years back so boldly named itself "The Wine Capital of Canada," has finally reached up to grab the brass ring and claim its due. Oliver is rapidly blossoming into a firmly identifiable region of its own.
Much of the glue for this new found togetherness started with the Oliver Ban‚e, a unique soir‚e where local wineries congregate to swap stories and taste-not just each others wines but, equally as important, bottles from around the world.
Each year, too, sees the continued ascent of The Toasted Oak Wine Bar & Grill, (34881 - 97th St, Oliver, 250-498-4867), whose kitchen proved no slouch for the fourth Ban‚e; and whose manager-sommelier Jay Drysdale wrangles the broadest and deepest B.C. cellar around.
With skyrocketing land values and vineyard conversions counted by piles of posts awaiting "planting" at almost every turn, it's apparent that Oliver has picked up Naramata's challenge.
In the coming months, plans for a Bellstar wine resort will be fine tuned-residential and hotel suites, restaurant, spa, interpretive centre, culinary arts facility, condos and boutiques will enhance but not compete with the town's unique character, says Bellstar executive vice president John Zwickel. (Bellstar's Spirit Ridge in Osoyoos is already firmly ensconced as the south's pre-eminent luxury destination.)
Mix in redevelopment of the intimately wood framed Southwind Hotel (starting later this year) for more much needed upscale accommodations, or check in now to Burrowing Owl Vineyard's luxury Guest House.
Ultimately, what counts most is in the bottle: The day after the Ban‚e saw a chance to meet "the wine character(s) of the South Okanagan"-the first tasting from the South Okanagan Winery Association. Membership prerequisite: a cellar door south of MacIntyre Bluff.
Our guess is that the chance to taste side-by-side the likes of Black Hills, Burrowing Owl, Fairview Cellars, Golden Mile, Tinhorn Creek, Nk'Mip, Inniskillin et al will quickly become one of the year's hottest tickets. And with newcomers such as Le Vieux Pin, Twisted Tree and the painfully named Oliver Twist the ranks are swelling, while Stoneboat Vineyards, Dunham & Froese (below MacIntyre Bluff) are planned for later.
Le Vieux Pin's Oliver East Bench, a French railway station-inspired winery, is a precursor to two other vaunted siblings, Lestella and Selona. Price points are high, labels very smart and initial quality good: cachet wines, only available by allocation in a select few restaurants, says managing partner Anthony
Burée. Watch for: Apog‚e Merlot 2005: intensely focused black fruit with cherry and cassis, good acidity and black pepper notes ($65).
"The geography of the south end is very unique," says Tinhorn pioneer Sandra Oldfield. "All of us grow here. But you can find little nuances of your area that are different from the neighbours."
Of note and available:
* Tinhorn Creek Gewurz. 2006
The perfect playoff sipper: tropical toned, gently off dry and easy to like, plus the Stelvin top means you won't have to miss any goals looking for a corkscrew. Game snacks: satay or anything slightly spicy, $15.49 VQA stores, PWS.
* Black Hills Nota Bene 2005. Maybe one of the best blends yet (43 per cent Cab Sauv., 37 per cent Merlot and 20 per cent Cab Franc.). Very balanced, well structured, with ripe, focused black cherry notes and fine tannins to a rich, smooth finish. Expect the quality to rise further in the minimalist, very functional new winery. $37 PWS.
* Burrowing Owl Chardonnay 2005
Creamy but restrained French oak with vanilla notes, vibrant stonefruit and a rich, gently honeyed palate. Very polished. $25 PWS.
* Fairview Cellars Cabernet Franc 2005
More evidence that Cab Franc could turn into a winner for the Okanagan comes from Bill Eggert's latest. He says: "Red and good"-plus easy tannins, plummy red fruit and a gently luscious palate. $24.90 PWS.
published on 04/27/2007
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