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Chilean whites as good as its reds
By Tim Pawsey
Chile and red wine have become synonymous. Yet our trading partner a few thousand kilometres to the south also makes its share of good whites-many of which come from ocean-cooled Casablanca, the region that lies closer to the Pacific northwest of Santiago, separated by a coastal range and narrow valley gap. Maritime breezes temper searing summer heat, and decent diurnals-the difference between daytime highs and nighttime lows-yield good levels of acidity. It's perfect sauvignon blanc and chardonnay country.
One of the region's more impressive producers, Vina
Morandé is the brainchild of Pablo Morandé. Familiar with cool-climate Sonoma and Carneros,
Morandé noticed distinct similarities to Casablanca, from the climate to native flora and fauna. The former Concha y Toro senior winemaker planted the region's first vines in 1982. Vina
Morandé was founded in 1996 and continues to flourish. Today, Morandé's enologist daughter Macarena makes the reserve wines. She's a progressive winemaker whose experiments with cryogenic (frozen) grapes have proven very successful. Her father's specific passion is pinot noir, examples of which will show up here this fall. (For a small preview, and a true value drop, pick up a bottle of Pionero Pinot Noir '06, BCLS $12.95.)
* Morandé Gran Reserva Chardonnay 2005
One of the best Casablanca chardonnays: textured, yeasty and leesy, with luscious flavours of cream corn, citrus and stone fruit wrapped in vibrant acidity. French oak.
Macarena says about a quarter of the grapes were cryogenically frozen. Available at Kits Wine Cellar and Liberty, c. $27.
* Morandé Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Casablanca fruit, with tropical notes on top, pineapple and grapefruit on the palate, clean and juicy with good acidity and a crisp finish. Think oysters on the half shell. Kits Wine Cellar, Liberty, $20-22.
Also worth a nod:
* Casas del Bosque Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Luscious kiwi and tropical notes with distinct gooseberry, generous mouthfeel with some leesy notes. BCLS $18.24.
* Errazuriz Wild Ferment Chardonnay 2005 (Casablanca)
Yeasty biscuit and buttery aromas, before a rich mouth-feel with creamy notes plus apple and pear: refreshing with mineral undertones and balanced oak. A rich white that would go well with everything from grilled chicken to halibut with citrus cream sauce. BCLS $21.65.
* Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Chardonnay (Maipo/Pirque)
Butter aromas followed by a rich, creamy, toasty palate with lively tropical papaya and peach; good acidity, some mineral hints and a rich, lingering close. BCLS $22.99.
Plus a couple of sippers to kick off your summer:
* Viu Manent Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Another very consistent Chilean producer: stone-fruit driven and zesty toned sauvignon. Sip it or pour with fresh halibut and citrus dressing. Great value. BCLS $11.99.
* Cremaschi Furlotti Ros‚ 2005
This could be one of the best budget ros‚s of the season-made with 100 per cent Carmenere. Very pretty in the glass, gentle cherry and plum notes with cherry on the palate, gently off dry and decent acidity that makes it a happy food partner: cold chicken, barbecued white spring salmon, hard cheeses or whatever you crave! PWS $13.50.
published on 07/06/2007
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